Whether you are a super fan of art and history, or just want to say you've seen the Mona Lisa, a visit to the Louvre is a must-do if you are in Paris. This fortress turned palace turned gallery is now a massive, sprawling, and overwhelming collection of some of the most important pieces of human history.
Read MoreVisiting Cambodia: Monkeys, Temples & Khmer Rouge History
A trip to Cambodia can be pretty intense.
Monkeys run through ancient temples that seem to grow out of the jungle. There are no conventional traffic rules. In fact, sometimes it seem like there really aren't any rules at all — at least not the ones that we follow in North America.
It isn't rare for an elephant to try and steal your lunch while you dine on an outdoor patio, and there are still land mines everywhere making it unsafe to wander off beaten paths.
Khmer Rouge History
In order to make the most of any trip to Cambodia, you have to understand the not-so-pleasant history of the Khmer Rouge (aka why there are land mines everywhere).
The Khmer Rouge ruled Cambodia from 1975-1979, and was one of the most lethal regimes of the twentieth century. Through their methods of agrarian communism, they had the entire country working on collective farms, or forced labor projects, growing food that they were not allowed to eat and watching their families die around them.
The regime killed anyone in connection with the former government, professionals, intellectuals, anyone wearing glasses, non ‘pure’ Cambodians, homosexuals and people who had come from urban communities. They even regularly purged within their own organization. No one was safe under Khmer Rouge rule.
People were divided into two categories: the Old People who had grown up on farms and never left them for the big cities, and the New People who they ruled using the motto “To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss”.
After four bloody years in power, they were removed in 1979 by the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
More than 2 million people were killed. 2 million. There is no exact number yet. They are still counting the dead.
Pol Pot, Brother Number 1 (the leader of the Khmer Rouge), died on April 15, 1998 and was never put on trial.
In 1997, Cambodia appealed to the UN to set up a genocide tribunal, but it wasn’t until 9 years later, when many high ranking officials were dying of old age, that it actually came into being. In 2007, Nuon Chea, Brother Number 2, was taken into custody for “alleged crimes against humanity”.
The country is now in the midst of rebuilding itself socially, economically and most importantly, psychologically. Like many countries in South East Asia, Cambodia is turning to tourism as a financial way to rebuild their nation, and it seems to be working.
Spots To See
The temples at Angkor make up the largest freestanding religious complex in the world, and are visited by thousands of people every year by boat, plane, bus, car and tuk-tuk. There is nothing like walking through a ruined temple being both held together and torn apart by the jungle growing on, over and through its walls. At the end of the day monkeys run by as the air cools, and monks in saffron robes walk slowly and thoughtfully down the ancient stone corridors. It is definitely a sight to see, and one of the most incredible spots I have ever travelled to.
But, there are other things to see in Cambodia too!
The Mekong River is one of the largest in the world and is the home of some of the world’s only freshwater dolphins and floating villages that are a photographers dream.
Phnom Pen is a mecca of colorful markets selling clothing, fabric, shoes, jewellery and anything else you can imagine (and things that you can’t) for pocket change.
A trip to Cambodia could not be complete without a trip to the beach! Shianokville is the main beach town with great access and wide range of accommodation. The sand is white and the water is the perfect temperature. It shares its coast with Thailand, and the beaches are much the same, but underdeveloped.
Other (more serious, yet important) attractions draw attention to the Khmer Rouge era.
The Tuol Sleng Museum sits innocently amongst narrow side streets, apartment buildings and houses. Once a high school, it was converted into the largest centre of detention and torture in Cambodia. Named Security Prison 21 (S-21), it now houses a collection of photos of the both inmates, and floors of cells that have been left relatively untouched. Photos of Khmer Rouge leaders are also on display covered in graffiti, with cigarette burns for eyes. The space on the wall where the photo of Pol Pot should be lies empty. The photo was stolen and no one bothered to (or wanted to) replace it.
The Killing Fields, located just outside the city, are an unexpectedly small area that is covered in lush green grass. A massive glass pagoda stands at the entrance, piled high with skulls, femurs and other bones of the dead. The fields themselves are just that — fields. Crude signs mark the mass graves, listing the number of dead that have been found there. But not everyone has been removed. Bones protrude from pits and pathways, and the clothes of the dead become visible as the ground erodes away.
No matter where you go in Cambodia, one thing stays consistent, the children. They are everywhere. They surround you at the temples trying to sell you anything and everything in perfect English. They flirt like adults and they are so confident and straightforward, that sometimes it is only their size that can remind you that they really are children. They walk the streets hanging off your arms, looking up at you with big brown eyes, begging for food, money or anything. They are heartbreakingly cute.
Whatever you do though, don't give them money. It won't help.
There are few places in the world that truly surpass expectations, and Cambodia blew all of mine out of the water. I felt all my senses heightened when I was there, and found the adventure exhilarating. I hope you feel the same way — happy travels!
8 Things You Must See and Do in Florence
Winding cobblestone streets lined with tall, stone buildings filled with shops, cafes and restaurants. Churches covered in the art works of Italian masters. Fashion trends that won't make it to North America for years. Museums overflowing with paintings, sculpture and sketches. Walking in the footsteps of Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello and Raphael (no, not the Ninja Turtles)... what isn't there to see and do in the glorious city of Florence!
Here is your guide to the top spots to see and the best things to do when visiting Florence!
1. The Duomo
Though you may have spotted the terracotta coloured tiles of Brunelleschi's massive dome long before you come upon the cathedral, the first time that you turn the corner and find yourself in front of the pink and green marble facade, you are sure to have the wind knocked out of you.
The church is gigantic, towering above all the buildings surrounding it, and breathtakingly beautiful.
The best time to visit is in the off-season, when the interior is open to all, nothing is closed off to tourists and the echoing halls are quiet, deserted, and lit by flickering candlelight.
2. The Baptistery and The Gates of Paradise
Across from the Duomo sits the octagonal shaped baptistery that was built on the site of an ancient Roman temple as early as the 5th century. Dante was among the celebrated figures that have been baptized in this marble structure that is famous for its gilded bronze doors, the most famous being Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise (pictured below) — 10 intricate panels depicting stories from the old testament. The one's hanging are replicas but you can check out the originals at the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo.
3. Piazza della Signoria
This expansive piazza is the political hub of the city and is surrounded by some beautiful historic buildings including the Palazzo Vecchio which is the seat of the Florentine government and full of murals by iconic artists.
The Piazza also contains a sculpture gallery (a great spot to people watch from on a warm evening) and an exact replica of the famous David by Michelangelo.
4. Galleries
The Uffizi Gallery, built in the 16th century by the artist and art historian Vasari, is the home of the private art collection of the Medici family — essentially the 'royal family' of Florence at the height of the Renaissance and passionate art patrons. Works by masters like Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello, and Raphael can be found here as well as stunning paintings by Botticelli (my personal favourites).
Another 'can't-miss' is the Galleria dell’Accademia, which is the home of the original David and Michelangelo's unfinished Slaves that give a unique insight into the artist's process.
5. Ponte Vecchio
The only bridge that survived the Nazi explosives in 1944 (pictured above), this unique 14th century structure is the home of the city's most beautiful jewellery shops.
Unless you are travelling with a pocketful for cash, don't expect to do more then window shop on this pricy strip, but something as unique as a bridge covered in houses is definitely worth the visit.
6. Piazzale Michelangelo
It's a bit of a trek, but the views from this plaza (pictures below), across the river from the centre of the city, are worth every drip of sweat.
On a clear day, you can see straight to the green Tuscan hills beyond the city.
7. Cafes, Restaurants, and Wine
There are some fantastic cafes, their tables spilling out into the street, between the Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria, as well as some great spots for gelato.
Florence is incredibly close to the Chianti region which means some delicious wine, readily available at extremely low prices, and there are no rules about drinking in the streets so grab a bottle from a local grocery store and head to the Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy a sunset after a long day of sightseeing!
8. Shop, shop, and shop some more
Florence contains everything from department stores to street markets and everything in between.
Most boutiques, jewellery shops and designer stores are located between the cathedral and the Arno river, while the best spot to find leather, souvenirs, hand-bound books, clothing, and jewellery at low prices is at the Piazza del Mercato Centrale (an open-air market located near the train station).
Must-Visit Destination: Exploring The City of Taormina, Italy
THE STATS:
Location — Taormina is a small picturesque town located on the east coast of the island of Sicily, Italy. It perches high on the cliffs above the Ionian Sea, which is luxuriously warm and has an extremely high salt content (better for floating!).
Population — Approximately 11,000 permanent residents call this historical village home.
Claim To Fame — Considered to be the most beautiful town in Sicily, Taormina has been a hub of art and trade back to the time when Italy was ruled by the Greeks (around the 5th century BC). Now frequented by the European jet-set, it is the type of Italian town you see in the movies, and is packed with restaurants, cafes, parks, and boutiques. One of the most stunning sights is the Teatro Greco, an ancient Roman amphitheatre that overlooks the sea and — on a clear day — gives you a view of Mt Etna. Oh, and did I mention the AMAZING beaches!
Orientation — The town centre is located on the top of a hill (you must take a bus or a looonnnggg walk to get up to it). The main road, Corso Umberto I, runs through the whole town.
Getting Around — Walk, walk, and walk! This is a tiny little town so the easiest way to get around, and take in the gorgeous views, is to use your own two feet. In order to get down to the beach you will need to take a cable car OR go on a nice long steep hike (trust me, take the cable car).
Getting There and Away — If you are coming from the mainland, the easiest thing to do is to take the train. How do you get to an island on a train you ask? On a boat of course! The Italians have ferry boats that line up with the tracks and allow the trains to drive right on, meeting up with the tracks again on the island. You will need to catch an Interbus from the train station into town. If travelling around the island the best way to go is by bus.
Where To Stay — Because Taormina tends to attract a wealthier crowd, there are many expensive hotels, pensiones, villas, and rooms for rent. But, the budget conscious need not dismay, there are also a few cheap hostels and even a campground for you! Try and call ahead if you are travelling in the high season however, as you can imagine, these less-expensive options fill up fast!
What To Do — Relax at a cafe, ride the cable car down to the beach, suntan, take in the majestic view of Mt Etna at the Teatro Greco, hike up the cacti speckled cliffs overlooking the sea, wander through the historic city centre as the sun sets, indulge in a delicious meal at a local restaurant... REPEAT!
How I Found It — While travelling through Italy, my travel buddies and I ended up in Taormina largely because it was the lest expensive ticket to buy at the train station. Our ultimate goal was getting to Mt Etna (a town over), but we decided to stop here in order to save some money.
Intending to only stay for one night, we ended up adding a few more because of the chilled out atmosphere, a great hostel, and the gorgeous beach!
Must-Visit Destination: The Enchanting City of Cortona in Italy
THE STATS:
Location — If you look at a map of Italy, Cortona is pretty much smack-dab in the middle. It is located between Rome and Florence, in the province of Arezzo, set on the side of one of the Tuscan hills covered in olive groves.
Population —The city is surrounded by high, stone walls and so its expansion is limited. There are currently around 23,000 people.
Cortona's Claim To Fame — American author Frances Mayes moved to Cortona, found love, and wrote a book called Under The Tuscan Sun. This book was turned into a movie of the same name which was filmed in the town. Cortona’s opera house made an appearance in the movie Life Is Beautiful and, on a more historical note, it is one of the few cities bypassed by Alexander The Great who apparently marched right by on his journey to conquer the known world.
Orientation — Because the city is built into a hill, it has only one level street, Via Nazionale or Main Street, located near Piazzale Garibaldi — the main gate. As I mentioned before, an ancient stone wall (going back to the time of the Etruscans) encircles the entire city and there are only a few exits or entrances. Most of the hotels, restaurants and cafes are located near, or just off, the Main Street. At the top of the hill is a huge cathedral and the old historical fort. You can walk around the entire city in about an hour.
Getting Around — There is no need to do anything but walk within the city walls. Most of the roads are very steep and made of uneven cobblestones, so make sure you are wearing comfortable footwear (leave the heels at home ladies).
Getting There And Away — The Florence-Rome train line does not stop in Cortona, but in Camucia located at the bottom of the hill; the stop is called Camucia-Cortona. It is close enough to both of the big cities that you can easily visit Cortona as a day trip (but I recommend staying at least one night). Buses, running every half hour, will take you up to Cortona’s main gate, BUT if you are up for it, a 20-30 minute walk through olive groves and past stone farmhouses is also an option.
Where To Stay — Ostello San Marco is the main hostel is the city and is located in an old monastery which means that it has huge, clean rooms. Their website is pretty rough, but it's where I stayed and is a fantastic hostel. There are a few small hotels and B&Bs as well.
What To Do — Though Cortona is small and not full of the usual attractions, what makes this place so special is the atmosphere. It has the feel, smells, and look of another time — everything that you imagine the idealized ‘Tuscany’ to be can be found within the city walls.
There are incredible views of the valley from multiple locations, bakeries full of treats, wine bars bursting with local flavours, and family-run restaurants full of melt-in-your-mouth dishes. There are also stunning examples of Renaissance architecture, churches with beautiful sculpture, and the Museo Diocesano has some incredible pieces (notable is a masterpiece by Fra Angelico).
A hike up to the 16th century Fortezza, originally built for the Medici family, is definitely worth the sweat, as it offers stunning views and a unique look at the interior of the fortified walls of the city.
How I Found It — My University had a campus located in Cortona, so in 2004, I was lucky to spend almost 4 months living in the city. While there, I studied art history, history, and classics from people who lived or worked in the area.
I went for morning jogs past Frances Mayes’ home, drank Tuscan wine daily, and became a regular at Bar Sport, my favourite cappuccino spot, where I learned the art of drinking coffee in Italy.
It is — without a doubt — one of the most magical places that I have ever been, and well worth the hike up the hill to visit it!
Must-Visit Destination: The Picturesque City of York in England
THE STATS:
Location — Approximately 280 km north of London, in the county of Yorkshire, where the Ouse and Foss rivers meet.
Population — Around 203,000 permanent residents.
Claim to Fame — A medieval spider web of narrow streets, lined with period architecture, that makes you feel like you have stepped into a scene from a Harry Potter movie; 13th century walls that are STILL intact and surround the city; the city’s Minster (big ‘ol stone church) is the largest medieval cathedral in Northern Europe and one of the world’s most beautiful Gothic buildings.
Orientation —‘Old York’, full of shops, cafes, and traditional pubs, is surrounded by the old wall and contains an abundance of pedestrian streets. The minster is visible from almost everywhere within the walls so just look up if you get disoriented.
Getting Around —Traffic within the walls can get pretty congested, so walking is your best bet. There is so much to look at, that even those of you who hate walking will have covered a lot of ground before you even realize it. Taxis are available of course, but unless the British Pound is your native currency, the fare can add up very fast.
Getting There and Away — A train station lies just outside the wall that also serves as the city’s bus terminal. The nearest airports are in Leeds and Manchester. Driving is also an option, just remember that they drive on the right side of the road in the UK and it is difficult to rent automatic vehicles.
Where To Stay — As you can imagine, this quaint, picturesque village is the perfect location for B&B’s and they are available in abundance. Though there are many within the city walls, if you are willing to walk 5-10 minutes beyond the wall, you will be rewarded with a bed for a fraction of the price. Hotels are also popular, and most have restaurants located in their lobby. There are a few hostels as well, but they fill up fast in the summer months, so you will have to plan ahead.
What To Do — Walk along the city walls; explore the museum gardens filled with ancient ruins; wander through the breathtaking Minster and then climb the narrow spiral staircase to the roof for stunning 360 degree views of the city; take a river cruise and see the city from a different angle; soak up street entertainment while lounging in one of the hundreds of cafes; hike up to the historic Clifford’s Tower, all that remains of York Castle; spend a day betting on horses at the nearby racecourse; let yourself get lost is the maze of history as you imagine what life was like when the cobblestones you are walking over were first laid; OR (if none of that interests you) enjoy some ‘high-street’ style shopping and then kick back with a pint in one of the traditional English pubs!
How I Found It — One of my closest friends was getting married, and because her fiance was in the British military that happened to have him stationed in York, that was where the wedding was scheduled to take place. Lucky for her (and us) it couldn’t have been a more picturesque locale.
The other bridesmaids and I arrived a week before the ceremony to help her prepare which gave us a chance to explore the city and soak up the culture.
It is definitely worth the trip, just try and avoid visiting from June to August — unless you don’t mind fighting swarms of tourists.
Travel Tales: Exploring A Historic Beijing Hutong
For the entire 20 minutes I was in his cab, my driver used the little English he knew to try and convince me to let him take me to a "very good duck restaurant" or the "Forbidden Palace". I patiently responded "No, Shay Shay" (No, thank you) every time. I wasn’t sure if he was trying to get a higher fare out of me or if he was genuinely concerned to be taking me to a place not often visited by tourists.
I had read that the best way to explore the historical hutong’s (narrow alleys) of Beijing was to wander away from the tourist spots, near the city center, where the narrow alleyways crisscrossed east-west across the city.
The enchanting maze of one-story dilapidated dwellings and courtyards are home to a quarter of the city’s population, but that number is dropping as the government continues to knock these historical areas down, determined to cover the city in modern, high-rise buildings.
Reluctantly, my driver pulled to a stop at the end of a wide, pedestrian road, lined with antique stores. I handed him my fare and climbed out of the tiny car, leaving him shouting, "acrobat show?!" behind me in a desperate attempt to get me back in his cab.
I shook my head and smiled, but didn’t turn around, there was too much to look at in front of me.
I was on one of Beijing’s antique streets lined with shops full of old books, paintings, paper and brushes as well as Cultural Revolution kitsch like copies of Mao’s Little Red Book, pins with his face on them, and statues of the now deceased leader.
Though I was intrigued at first, it didn’t take long for me to get annoyed with the pushy salespeople trying to shove their products in my face. This was clearly not the place to window shop. I wasn’t there for shopping though — I was there to explore the hutong.
Ducking through a small archway, I found myself in a deserted, narrow alleyway. Laundry hung on hangers from the overhead power lines and on ropes strung between doorways. Too small for cars to fit down, the alley had bikes and scooters parked sporadically to it’s side. I was a bit surprised to see that nothing was locked up.
Peeking through a doorway, I found myself looking straight into an outhouse. The blue wooden door sagged open and there was about half a roll of toilet paper hung on a nail just outside it (most hutong’s still don’t have plumbing).
Two men sat on stools in another doorway further down the alley, playing chess. They looked up at me surprised when I walked by, I can’t imagine that they get many foreigners walking alone through their neighborhood. I smiled at them, self-consciously slipping my camera into my pocket, and nodded before continuing on my way.
They were the only people that I saw, and after awhile, as the shadows started to get longer, the deserted alleys started to feel dilapidated and even a little eerie.
Just as I was actually starting to get scared, wondering how I was going to get out of the maze with no phone and not knowing a word of Mandarin or Cantonese, I turned a corner and almost stumbled into a busy street.
Letting out the breath that I hadn’t even realized that I was holding, I threw my arm up in the air, and a cab — after careening across three lanes of chaotic traffic to get to me — screeched to a halt beside me.
I gave him the name of my hostel and sat back listening to him offer to take me to Summer Palace and Temple of Heaven instead as we pulled back onto the busy road, leaving the maze of the hutong behind us.
