August 18, 2012

5 Reasons Why You Should Embrace Off-Season Travel

by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Travel Tips, Adventure

off-season or shoulder season travel tips

I am constantly asked for advice on when the best time to travel is and my answer is always the same — the shoulder or off-season.

This tends to fall outside of the summer months and in between holidays, when the weather is colder, the days a bit shorter, and there are no popular festivals filling the streets. While you may have to wear a few extra layers while exploring, traveling during this time of year has A LOT of benefits.

1. You Look Less Like A Tourist

There is nothing that screams ‘tourist’ more than runners, shorts, a brightly coloured T-shirt, and a sunburn.

Not only that, if you are from a dry country and are touring somewhere humid in the middle of summer, you are sure to be sweating as you sit in a crowded subway or walk down sunny streets. (Trust me, I’ve experienced it).

If you are travelling in the off-season, you will more likely be wearing clothing that helps you blend better with the locals and will be more comfortable in the cooler climate.

2. Locals Are More Patient

If you live anywhere that is considered a ‘tourist destination’, you know how annoying large, loud groups who don’t look where they are walking and force you to wait in line for a coffee can be.

In the off-season, having had a break from the onslaught of travellers, the waiter in the cafe will be more patient while you struggle to order a coffee in his native tongue, and shop owners are sure to be kinder.

3. Scam Artists and Pick-Pockets are on Vacation

Scam artists go where the business is, and in the off-season, the people trying to charge you $20 for a walking tour to nowhere or $30 for a plastic statue of Michelangelo’s David are nowhere to be found.

Without a crowd to hide what they are doing, pick-pockets are also sure to keep their distance.

4. Costs are Significantly Lower

Not only will your accommodation be almost cut in half, the price of meals, admission, taxis, souvenirs, tours — pretty much EVERYTHING — will be cheap, cheap, cheap!

I stayed at a resort on the beach in the Algarve last November for 30% of what it would cost during the peak season. It was still warm enough to suntan during the day and it was lovely to have my pick of spots on the beach!

5. Attractions Are People-Free and Relaxing

Imagine standing in front of the Mona Lisa completely alone, taking a photo of the Colosseum without a single person in it, or walking into a temple at Angkor that not a soul is in but you.

All of these things are possible (I promise, I have the photos and experiences to prove it!) if you embrace off-season travel!

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Must-Visit Destination: The Enchanting City of Cortona in Italy

by Lindsay Shapka in Destinations, Travel, Travel Tips, Adventure

THE STATS:

Location — If you look at a map of Italy, Cortona is pretty much smack-dab in the middle. It is located between Rome and Florence, in the province of Arezzo, set on the side of one of the Tuscan hills covered in olive groves.

Population —The city is surrounded by high, stone walls and so its expansion is limited. There are currently around 23,000 people.

Cortona's Claim To Fame — American author Frances Mayes moved to Cortona, found love, and wrote a book called Under The Tuscan Sun. This book was turned into a movie of the same name which was filmed in the town. Cortona’s opera house made an appearance in the movie Life Is Beautiful and, on a more historical note, it is one of the few cities bypassed by Alexander The Great who apparently marched right by on his journey to conquer the known world.

Orientation — Because the city is built into a hill, it has only one level street, Via Nazionale or Main Street, located near Piazzale Garibaldi — the main gate. As I mentioned before, an ancient stone wall (going back to the time of the Etruscans) encircles the entire city and there are only a few exits or entrances. Most of the hotels, restaurants and cafes are located near, or just off, the Main Street. At the top of the hill is a huge cathedral and the old historical fort. You can walk around the entire city in about an hour.

Getting Around — There is no need to do anything but walk within the city walls. Most of the roads are very steep and made of uneven cobblestones, so make sure you are wearing comfortable footwear (leave the heels at home ladies).

Getting There And Away — The Florence-Rome train line does not stop in Cortona, but in Camucia located at the bottom of the hill; the stop is called Camucia-Cortona. It is close enough to both of the big cities that you can easily visit Cortona as a day trip (but I recommend staying at least one night). Buses, running every half hour, will take you up to Cortona’s main gate, BUT if you are up for it, a 20-30 minute walk through olive groves and past stone farmhouses is also an option.

Where To Stay — Ostello San Marco is the main hostel is the city and is located in an old monastery which means that it has huge, clean rooms. Their website is pretty rough, but it's where I stayed and is a fantastic hostel. There are a few small hotels and B&Bs as well.

What To Do — Though Cortona is small and not full of the usual attractions, what makes this place so special is the atmosphere. It has the feel, smells, and look of another time — everything that you imagine the idealized ‘Tuscany’ to be can be found within the city walls.

There are incredible views of the valley from multiple locations, bakeries full of treats, wine bars bursting with local flavours, and family-run restaurants full of melt-in-your-mouth dishes. There are also stunning examples of Renaissance architecture, churches with beautiful sculpture, and the Museo Diocesano has some incredible pieces (notable is a masterpiece by Fra Angelico).

A hike up to the 16th century Fortezza, originally built for the Medici family, is definitely worth the sweat, as it offers stunning views and a unique look at the interior of the fortified walls of the city.

How I Found It — My University had a campus located in Cortona, so in 2004, I was lucky to spend almost 4 months living in the city. While there, I studied art history, history, and classics from people who lived or worked in the area.

I went for morning jogs past Frances Mayes’ home, drank Tuscan wine daily, and became a regular at Bar Sport, my favourite cappuccino spot, where I learned the art of drinking coffee in Italy.

It is — without a doubt — one of the most magical places that I have ever been, and well worth the hike up the hill to visit it!

How To Survive A Full Moon Party On Ko Pha Ngan In Thailand

by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Travel Tips, Travel Adventures

How to survive a full moon party in Thailand

According to local legend, the first Full Moon Party, at Hat Rin beach on Ko Pha Ngan, took place in either 1987 or 1988 (ironically, no one can remember), and was meant to be someone’s birthday celebration. The party was so amazing that the group decided to meet up again for the next full moon, and so began a tradition that has turned into one of the largest monthly parties in the world. Anywhere from 3,000 to 30,000 people turn up to dance, drink, and party the night away, all with the goal of living to tell the tale.

Surviving a Full Moon Party is no easy feat, and I’m not just saying that to scare you, the incidence of death and serious injury at these parties rises every month. Here are some tips to help you make it through the night:

1. Show Up a Few Days Early

If you are planning on staying in Hat Rin, you will need to show up at least 3 days (even that is cutting it close) in advance to ensure that you can get a place to stay.

If you don’t find an available room, hotels at nearby beaches will have boats that will shuttle you to the party and home again once the sun rises.

TIP: If you do stay in Hat Rin make sure that you lock up any valuables in the hotel safe as break-ins during the chaotic party are frequent.

2. Bare Feet are Your Friends

The 10+ most intense party zones (usually distinguished by different music blaring from MASSIVE speakers) are all on the beach.

Shoes+Sand=No Fun

In your intoxicated party state, you will inevitably kick-off your shoes and lose them. I guarantee it. Leave them in your room.

3. Do Not Use a Purse/Bag or Exterior Pockets

Crowds of drunken tourists rubbing up against each other on a dance-floor are a pick-pocket's dream. Anything that you leave in an unsecured pocket, or set down for a minute so you can dance, is likely to disappear.

Ladies, I suggest using your bra or bathing suit as a wallet, boys try to use interior pockets or ones with zippers, buttons, or snaps. No one will ask for ID, so all you really need to have with you is some cash, your room key, and (if you are especially ambitious) your camera or phone.

4. Don’t Play With Fire

I know that this should go without saying, but it was remarkable to see how many people had limbs wrapped in white bandages the day after the Full Moon Party I attended.

Fire dancers seem more than willing to let drunken tourists ‘try out’ their trade, and a giant skipping rope dripping with flames is available for insane party-goers to try out. (I am pretty sure these fire ‘games’ are the local’s way of getting back at us for filling their beaches and nights with debauchery and chaos.)

5. Say No To Drugs

To many, Thailand is know as the land of ‘mushroom shakes’ and Bob Marley inspired bars… aka, if you want them, drugs are readily available.

But, the laws against drugs in Thailand are extreme and if you are caught with them in your possession, you WILL end up in jail (think Brokedown Palace).

Police have a presence at these parties, but there are even more officers in plain clothes mixing in with party-goers, waiting to catch you in the act.

Use at your own risk.

Must-Visit Destination: The Picturesque City of York in England

by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Destinations, Adventure

The Clifford Tower             York, UK — *The Clifford Tower York, UK*

THE STATS:

Location — Approximately 280 km north of London, in the county of Yorkshire, where the Ouse and Foss rivers meet.

Population — Around 203,000 permanent residents.

Claim to Fame — A medieval spider web of narrow streets, lined with period architecture, that makes you feel like you have stepped into a scene from a Harry Potter movie; 13th century walls that are STILL intact and surround the city; the city’s Minster (big ‘ol stone church) is the largest medieval cathedral in Northern Europe and one of the world’s most beautiful Gothic buildings.

The York Minster York, UK

Detail of the Minster ceiling York, UK

Orientation —‘Old York’, full of shops, cafes, and traditional pubs, is surrounded by the old wall and contains an abundance of pedestrian streets. The minster is visible from almost everywhere within the walls so just look up if you get disoriented.

Getting Around —Traffic within the walls can get pretty congested, so walking is your best bet. There is so much to look at, that even those of you who hate walking will have covered a lot of ground before you even realize it. Taxis are available of course, but unless the British Pound is your native currency, the fare can add up very fast.

Getting There and Away — A train station lies just outside the wall that also serves as the city’s bus terminal. The nearest airports are in Leeds and Manchester. Driving is also an option, just remember that they drive on the right side of the road in the UK and it is difficult to rent automatic vehicles.

Where To Stay — As you can imagine, this quaint, picturesque village is the perfect location for B&B’s and they are available in abundance. Though there are many within the city walls, if you are willing to walk 5-10 minutes beyond the wall, you will be rewarded with a bed for a fraction of the price. Hotels are also popular, and most have restaurants located in their lobby. There are a few hostels as well, but they fill up fast in the summer months, so you will have to plan ahead.

What To Do — Walk along the city walls; explore the museum gardens filled with ancient ruins; wander through the breathtaking Minster and then climb the narrow spiral staircase to the roof for stunning 360 degree views of the city; take a river cruise and see the city from a different angle; soak up street entertainment while lounging in one of the hundreds of cafes; hike up to the historic Clifford’s Tower, all that remains of York Castle; spend a day betting on horses at the nearby racecourse; let yourself get lost is the maze of history as you imagine what life was like when the cobblestones you are walking over were first laid; OR (if none of that interests you) enjoy some ‘high-street’ style shopping and then kick back with a pint in one of the traditional English pubs!

How I Found It — One of my closest friends was getting married, and because her fiance was in the British military that happened to have him stationed in York, that was where the wedding was scheduled to take place. Lucky for her (and us) it couldn’t have been a more picturesque locale.

The other bridesmaids and I arrived a week before the ceremony to help her prepare which gave us a chance to explore the city and soak up the culture.

It is definitely worth the trip, just try and avoid visiting from June to August — unless you don’t mind fighting swarms of tourists.

Must-Visit Destination: Explore The Island of Procida In Italy

by Lindsay Shapka in Destinations, Travel, Adventure

THE STATS:

Location – One of the tiniest (it is so small that it wasn’t even on the map in my Lonely Planet) Flegrean Islands located just off the coast of Naples, Italy.

Population – approx. 10,000 (this number can double in the heart of the summer).

Claim To Fame – The Talented Mr. Ripley filmed the end of the movie (remember the amazing aerial views of colorful Mediterranean houses?) in the historic harbour of the island (photo above); home of THE MOST AMAZING bruschetta that I have ever tasted in my life.

Orientation – Pastel pink, white and yellow square houses clutter the waterfront, while narrow roads (more like alleyways) lead to the homes in the interior. The entire island can be walked around in less then 4 hours.

Getting Around – You could try and take a cab, but walking or biking will get you there faster!

Getting There and Away – You can reach the island by boat from Naples or one of the surrounding islands.

Where to Stay – There are only a handful of hotels and campsites on the island. An option to consider is short-term home rental. I stayed in a lovely cottage that overlooked the ocean for only about 60 Euros a night (it was split 3 ways).

What to Do – Explore the galleries, boutiques and bistros near the harbour; snap photos of the weathered local fishermen and their boats; climb to the old watchtower and enjoy a breathtaking view; check out some of the historical Mediterranean architecture; laze on one of the quiet, expansive beaches.

How I Found It – My travel buddies and I were in a hostel in Florence, chatting and organizing our packs, when a tanned girl burst into the room, threw her bags on the ground, looked at us and said, “You HAVE to go to the island I was just on! IT WAS AMAZING!”

Hearing her account of amazing sunsets, quiet beaches, warm water and friendly locals convinced me, and before the night was over, we had decided to change our plans and make our way to Procida… best decision I ever made!

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June 8, 2012

How To Cross The Street In Southeast Asia

by Lindsay Shapka in Travel Tips, Travel Adventures, Adventure, Travel

What’s scarier than a stampede of wild horses running towards you?

If you guessed trying to cross the street in Southeast (SE) Asia, you would be correct!

Welcome to the land where crosswalks don’t exist, street-lights and stop signs (if there are any) are just a suggestion, and painted lines deleanating lanes are simply interesting road art.

If you are determined to stick to your western world-view that ‘as a pedestrian you have the right of way’, be prepared to become a western-style pancake. That rule means nothing on the mean (ok, they really aren’t mean, it just sounds cool) streets of SE Asia.

Here are a few suggestions on how to survive the traffic-choked streets:

Your first option is to just never cross the street, however, this will severely limit your experience and I do not reccommend this option at all.

Another option is to avoid walking and simply become a part of the problem by only taking cabs wherever you go. However, if you are on a budget or even remotely adventurous, this option will not work for you either.

The third option (and THE ONE I THINK YOU SHOULD PICK… no pressure) is to follow these simple steps:

Decide that you are going to cross the street.
Take a deep breath.
Step into traffic, look ahead, and begin walking at a steady pace in a STRAIGHT LINE.
Even if it seems like you are about to be hit, DO NOT SLOW DOWN OR SPEED UP.
Continue walking until you reach the other side.
Step up onto the curb.
Start breathing again.

Why will this work you ask?

So used to dodging other cars, scooters, tuk-tuks, and elephants (yes, elephants), drivers in Southeast Asia tend to be extremely alert and defensive. As long as you stay at a steady pace and walk in a straight line, dodging you is a breeze.

Good luck!

How to cross the street in Southeast Asia

Travel Tales: Visiting Buckingham Palace in London, England

by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Travel Adventures

Though I usually avoid tours at all cost, after some urging from my travel buddy — and since were only going to be in London for a few days — I agreed to take the classic Red Bus Tour. We boarded the double-decker bus first thing and spent the morning being whisked past some of the most iconic buildings and monuments in the city.

By the afternoon, I was only half listening to the tour guide’s non-stop narration of the city scenery when I caught the end of a sentence "…visit the state rooms of Buckingham", as we passed by the iconic symbol of London itself.

“Whoa! What did he say!?” I asked my friend.

“Those white tents over there,” she pointed, “are where you line up to visit Buckingham Palace.”

Visit Buckingham Palace… VISIT BUCKINGHAM PALACE!!!!

How did I not know that a normal person could actually go INSIDE the Queen’s official London home!?

I reached over and yanked hard on the yellow wire, signaling to the driver that I wanted off.

“Hurry!” I yelled at my friend jumping out of my seat, “we gotta go visit the Queen’s house!!”

She looked at me bemused and smiled apologetically at the tour guide who, for the first time all day, had paused his monologue and seemed a bit taken aback by my enthusiasm.

Jumping out of the bus, we practically ran towards the white tents covering a twisting line of tourists patiently waiting for their turn to see how the Royals lived. My friend sighed when she saw the line, but I determinedly took my place at the end of it.

I didn’t care how long I had to stand there, I was getting into that palace.

For a month in the summer, when the Queen and her court head to Balmoral Castle in the Highlands of Scotland (Fun Fact: If the queen is at the palace, the Sovereign’s Standard is flown, if not the Union Jack flaps proudly in the wind), the lavish and historic State Rooms of one of the few working palaces in the world are open to the public.

For those of you that have walked through the halls of the palace in Versailles or the Hapsburg summer palace in Austria, you might be wondering why this is such a big deal.

A palace is a palace right? WRONG

What makes a visit to Buckingham so incredible is that it is actually someone’s home — an incredibly wealthy someone. The rooms are clean, kept, and full of priceless furniture, art, and other treasures. They have not been looted or vandalised by mobs during uprisings (like Versailles) and are painstakingly taken care of by over 450 members of the Royal Household.

No mater what your opinion is of Royalty, there is something amazing about walking through rooms that generations of rulers from all over the world have dined in, danced in, and lived in.

The Royal Arms on the bronze entrance gates, 1905          Bromsgrove Guild — *The Royal Arms on the bronze entrance gates, 1905 Bromsgrove Guild*

The line moved surprisingly fast and after only about thirty minutes, we entered through the Ambassadors’ entrance, normally reserved for foreign ambassadors, senior government officials, and high ranking members of the armed services.

After walking through a narrow passageway, we stepped into the breathtaking Grand Entrance, all marble, columns, sculpture, and red plush carpeting.

Peeking through the windows, I could see a stone-filled square, called the Quadrangle, where the Queen receives exalted guests, and through that, the inside of the gates that, until that moment, I had seen only from the other side.

*The Grand Staircase, Buckingham Palace*

After walking up the stunning grand staircase literally made out of marble and gold, we entered the rooms on the first floor.

My mouth gaped open stupidly from that moment on, as we slowly wandered from room to room taking in the elaborate curtains, patterned walls, gilt mirrors, painted murals, and master works of art (the frames alone could have kept me travelling for years).

We passed through Drawing Rooms, The State Dining Room, The Ballroom, and The Throne Room — I could have stayed in there forever (seriously, I tried to keep my eye out for a place to hide).

Oh, the photos I would have taken if only I was permitted to! There is no taking photos in the Queen's house. (The interior photos used in this post are photos-I-took-of-photos found in the ‘Official Souvenir Guide’ by Derry Moore).

It took a lot, but (after a few hours) my VERY patient travel companion finally managed to drag me out of the palace and into the fresh air of the royal backyard. The 40-acre garden stretched out in front of me as I stood for a moment enjoying the Queen’s patio.

My mind instantly flashed to a picture that I had seen when I was younger of Princess Diana, Prince Charles, a young Prince William, and an even younger Prince Harry sitting on the grass together smiling.

The sides of my own lips turned up at the enchanting memory, which was broken as my friend tugged me down the stairs towards a path that led through the garden and ultimately back to the other "normal" side of Buckingham’s walls.

(Insert exaggerated sigh here)

What. A. Day.

5 Reasons Why You Should Embrace Off-Season Travel

1. You Look Less Like A Tourist

2. Locals Are More Patient

3. Scam Artists and Pick-Pockets are on Vacation

4. Costs are Significantly Lower

5. Attractions Are People-Free and Relaxing

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3. Do Not Use a Purse/Bag or Exterior Pockets

4. Don’t Play With Fire

5. Say No To Drugs

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