Tourists make the perfect mark for a scam artist. We are disoriented, don't know the language, are wide eyed, and are distracted by the new world that we have found ourselves in.
I have been approached by people all over the world who, while they seem kind, are actually out to relieve me of my wallet or other valuables.
Read MoreLocated on the east coast of Sicily, Mount Etna is one of the most active volcanos in the world (!), and is two times the size of the infamous Mount Vesuvius (the volcano near Pompeii).
Deciding to risk it for the sake of adventure, my friends and I left the safety of our hotel room in Catania early one morning and, after a sleepy bus ride, found ourselves at the base of this iconic force-of-nature.
Read MoreIn January of 2004, I found myself alone in a hotel in Rome — my very first time alone in a foreign country.
I was about to start a semester of university in Cortona, Italy and did not know a single soul who was going to be attending school with me. Not only was it my first time travelling alone, but it was my first time travelling in a country where few people spoke my language.
There were no smartphones, few students had laptops, wifi was not an option, my camera used film (no seeing what your photos looked like until you developed them!), and social media sites didn't exist. If I wanted contact with home, I had to buy a phone card and hope that the call would connect. And if someone from home wanted to contact me? They couldn't.
This is the story of my first few days alone in Rome — taken from my journal and my memories — that have helped empower and shape my travels ever since.
It is six in the morning and the clouds are turning pink outside my window. I can just barely see the moon through the mist.
This is probably going to be the only view I see today.
I am terrified to leave my room.
My hands are shaky and I can't stop crying. It would be easier if I could have a good, all-out sob and be done with it, but instead my tears are silent ones that steadily pour from the corners of my eyes.
I am scared and ashamed of it.
Four floors above the foreign streets, all I can see is rooftops. Eerie, lonely rooftops with weathervanes standing out against the rising sun. There is no sign of life at this level and no sound of it either.
My only consolation is the television that I have kept on all night turned to the only English station that I can find — a never-ending loop of BBC news.
My room is a shoebox, not large enough for Italian leather boots though, more fit for bargain children's shoes. The door opens into my tiny bed, a closet, and a desk. The bathroom is almost bigger then the room, but it is clean and has a window with a nice view of, well... rooftops.
What was I thinking?!
I have never been outside of my country alone before and here I am on an entirely different continent, alone in a strange hotel!
On top of the emotional goodbyes I made to family and friends just a few hours ago, I have lost and found both my bag and passport already, which, now that i think about it, may be part of the reason for the shaking.
This morning I am determined to leave the hotel.
I wake up early, shower and go up to the breakfast room on the eighth floor. The continental breakfast looks more like dessert — platters heaped with pastries and strong black coffee bolster my confidence (or at least give me a much needed energy boost).
About thirty minutes later, taking a deep breath, I take my first step out of the hotel and into the cobblestone streets of Rome. It is sunny and surprisingly warm for a January day which helps life my mood almost immediately.
I am walking along a street that borders the ancient city wall and am so busy looking at the map and trying to figure out where I am that it is there before I can prepare myself for it — the Colosseum.
I don't know why, but I can't hold back my emotions and without warning I burst into tears. It suddenly hits me how real the world is and I get a sense of how real I am for being a part of it. This incredible part of history is not on a slide or in a textbook, but directly in front of me.
I sink down on a pile of old stones in a park across the street from the massive monument and just look at it for awhile while I let the tears run down my face.
Slowly coming back to reality, I take a few pictures (and a few deep breaths). The true blue sky is the perfect backdrop and the morning sun is carving deep shadows into the ancient stone and revealing secrets that can only be seen at that certain time of day. It is early on a Sunday morning, and there is hardly a soul in sight.
I cross the street, walk right up to it and touch it.
I touched it!
The rock is rough. Worn from battles, wars, erosion, the subway cars that pass below it, the smart-cars that pass beside it, and the millions of us that reach out and touch it in our need to confirm that it is really there.
In a trance, hardly breathing, I walk around the outside of this incredible piece of history, letting my fingers create an invisible trail on its ancient surface.
. . . . . . . . . . . .
The sun is shining on the facade of the Trevi Fountain, but where I sit is in shade. The once pure white marble seems to glow in all the right places, while the deep cuts in the statues are in perfect shadow. The water is loud, blocking out the noise of the modern world as it falls majestically over the strategically carved and well worn caverns.
It is perfect.
I could not have asked for a better day. I have spent the last few hours wandering from the Colosseum to the Roman Forum, through twisting winding streets to the Pantheon and finally to this famous fountain.
Though it is one of the most popular tourist sites in Rome, there are only a handful of people milling around on this January day. Some are posing for photos while others are throwing coins over their shoulders into the clear water to ensure their return. Like me, some are just sitting and observing while pigeons mill around our feet and men try to sell us useless trinkets.
An image projected on a screen in art class is nothing compared to the experience of the real thing... nothing.
For the first time since boarding the plane back home, I feel quiet, calm... relaxed.
Ahhhh Roma...
. . . . . . . . . . . .
As my new bible, Lonely Planet Italy, predicted, I am drawn to the windows along the streets as much as I am to the historic monuments. Seriously, a girl with a shoe fetish should NOT be allowed to walk alone in Rome! I have managed to stay out of the stores today, but it is only my first day out — with so much delightful temptation (and no one to stop me) my plan to save money isn't going to last long.
Other then realizing that travelling alone is not as scary as I thought, I have also discovered that in order to eat I will have to learn a few more phrases in Italian.
I figured out the hard way that I need to know more than "Ciao" in order to get a sandwich...
by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Destinations, Travel Adventures, Travel Tips
Winding cobblestone streets lined with tall, stone buildings filled with shops, cafes and restaurants. Churches covered in the art works of Italian masters. Fashion trends that won't make it to North America for years. Museums overflowing with paintings, sculpture and sketches. Walking in the footsteps of Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello and Raphael (no, not the Ninja Turtles)... what isn't there to see and do in the glorious city of Florence!
Here is your guide to the top spots to see and the best things to do when visiting Florence!
Though you may have spotted the terracotta coloured tiles of Brunelleschi's massive dome long before you come upon the cathedral, the first time that you turn the corner and find yourself in front of the pink and green marble facade, you are sure to have the wind knocked out of you.
The church is gigantic, towering above all the buildings surrounding it, and breathtakingly beautiful.
The best time to visit is in the off-season, when the interior is open to all, nothing is closed off to tourists and the echoing halls are quiet, deserted, and lit by flickering candlelight.
Across from the Duomo sits the octagonal shaped baptistery that was built on the site of an ancient Roman temple as early as the 5th century. Dante was among the celebrated figures that have been baptized in this marble structure that is famous for its gilded bronze doors, the most famous being Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise (pictured below) — 10 intricate panels depicting stories from the old testament. The one's hanging are replicas but you can check out the originals at the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo.
This expansive piazza is the political hub of the city and is surrounded by some beautiful historic buildings including the Palazzo Vecchio which is the seat of the Florentine government and full of murals by iconic artists.
The Piazza also contains a sculpture gallery (a great spot to people watch from on a warm evening) and an exact replica of the famous David by Michelangelo.
The Uffizi Gallery, built in the 16th century by the artist and art historian Vasari, is the home of the private art collection of the Medici family — essentially the 'royal family' of Florence at the height of the Renaissance and passionate art patrons. Works by masters like Michelangelo, Leonardo, Donatello, and Raphael can be found here as well as stunning paintings by Botticelli (my personal favourites).
Another 'can't-miss' is the Galleria dell’Accademia, which is the home of the original David and Michelangelo's unfinished Slaves that give a unique insight into the artist's process.
The only bridge that survived the Nazi explosives in 1944 (pictured above), this unique 14th century structure is the home of the city's most beautiful jewellery shops.
Unless you are travelling with a pocketful for cash, don't expect to do more then window shop on this pricy strip, but something as unique as a bridge covered in houses is definitely worth the visit.
It's a bit of a trek, but the views from this plaza (pictures below), across the river from the centre of the city, are worth every drip of sweat.
On a clear day, you can see straight to the green Tuscan hills beyond the city.
There are some fantastic cafes, their tables spilling out into the street, between the Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria, as well as some great spots for gelato.
Florence is incredibly close to the Chianti region which means some delicious wine, readily available at extremely low prices, and there are no rules about drinking in the streets so grab a bottle from a local grocery store and head to the Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy a sunset after a long day of sightseeing!
Florence contains everything from department stores to street markets and everything in between.
Most boutiques, jewellery shops and designer stores are located between the cathedral and the Arno river, while the best spot to find leather, souvenirs, hand-bound books, clothing, and jewellery at low prices is at the Piazza del Mercato Centrale (an open-air market located near the train station).
by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Destinations, Adventure
THE STATS:
Location — Taormina is a small picturesque town located on the east coast of the island of Sicily, Italy. It perches high on the cliffs above the Ionian Sea, which is luxuriously warm and has an extremely high salt content (better for floating!).
Population — Approximately 11,000 permanent residents call this historical village home.
Claim To Fame — Considered to be the most beautiful town in Sicily, Taormina has been a hub of art and trade back to the time when Italy was ruled by the Greeks (around the 5th century BC). Now frequented by the European jet-set, it is the type of Italian town you see in the movies, and is packed with restaurants, cafes, parks, and boutiques. One of the most stunning sights is the Teatro Greco, an ancient Roman amphitheatre that overlooks the sea and — on a clear day — gives you a view of Mt Etna. Oh, and did I mention the AMAZING beaches!
Orientation — The town centre is located on the top of a hill (you must take a bus or a looonnnggg walk to get up to it). The main road, Corso Umberto I, runs through the whole town.
Getting Around — Walk, walk, and walk! This is a tiny little town so the easiest way to get around, and take in the gorgeous views, is to use your own two feet. In order to get down to the beach you will need to take a cable car OR go on a nice long steep hike (trust me, take the cable car).
Getting There and Away — If you are coming from the mainland, the easiest thing to do is to take the train. How do you get to an island on a train you ask? On a boat of course! The Italians have ferry boats that line up with the tracks and allow the trains to drive right on, meeting up with the tracks again on the island. You will need to catch an Interbus from the train station into town. If travelling around the island the best way to go is by bus.
Where To Stay — Because Taormina tends to attract a wealthier crowd, there are many expensive hotels, pensiones, villas, and rooms for rent. But, the budget conscious need not dismay, there are also a few cheap hostels and even a campground for you! Try and call ahead if you are travelling in the high season however, as you can imagine, these less-expensive options fill up fast!
What To Do — Relax at a cafe, ride the cable car down to the beach, suntan, take in the majestic view of Mt Etna at the Teatro Greco, hike up the cacti speckled cliffs overlooking the sea, wander through the historic city centre as the sun sets, indulge in a delicious meal at a local restaurant... REPEAT!
How I Found It — While travelling through Italy, my travel buddies and I ended up in Taormina largely because it was the lest expensive ticket to buy at the train station. Our ultimate goal was getting to Mt Etna (a town over), but we decided to stop here in order to save some money.
Intending to only stay for one night, we ended up adding a few more because of the chilled out atmosphere, a great hostel, and the gorgeous beach!
The Teatro Greco was once solely used for gladiator combat and was where Woody Allen filmed the Greek chorus scene for his film Mighty Aphrodite.
by Lindsay Shapka in Travel, Travel Tips, Adventure
I am constantly asked for advice on when the best time to travel is and my answer is always the same — the shoulder or off-season.
This tends to fall outside of the summer months and in between holidays, when the weather is colder, the days a bit shorter, and there are no popular festivals filling the streets. While you may have to wear a few extra layers while exploring, traveling during this time of year has A LOT of benefits.
There is nothing that screams ‘tourist’ more than runners, shorts, a brightly coloured T-shirt, and a sunburn.
Not only that, if you are from a dry country and are touring somewhere humid in the middle of summer, you are sure to be sweating as you sit in a crowded subway or walk down sunny streets. (Trust me, I’ve experienced it).
If you are travelling in the off-season, you will more likely be wearing clothing that helps you blend better with the locals and will be more comfortable in the cooler climate.
If you live anywhere that is considered a ‘tourist destination’, you know how annoying large, loud groups who don’t look where they are walking and force you to wait in line for a coffee can be.
In the off-season, having had a break from the onslaught of travellers, the waiter in the cafe will be more patient while you struggle to order a coffee in his native tongue, and shop owners are sure to be kinder.
Scam artists go where the business is, and in the off-season, the people trying to charge you $20 for a walking tour to nowhere or $30 for a plastic statue of Michelangelo’s David are nowhere to be found.
Without a crowd to hide what they are doing, pick-pockets are also sure to keep their distance.
Not only will your accommodation be almost cut in half, the price of meals, admission, taxis, souvenirs, tours — pretty much EVERYTHING — will be cheap, cheap, cheap!
I stayed at a resort on the beach in the Algarve last November for 30% of what it would cost during the peak season. It was still warm enough to suntan during the day and it was lovely to have my pick of spots on the beach!
Imagine standing in front of the Mona Lisa completely alone, taking a photo of the Colosseum without a single person in it, or walking into a temple at Angkor that not a soul is in but you.
All of these things are possible (I promise, I have the photos and experiences to prove it!) if you embrace off-season travel!
by Lindsay Shapka in Destinations, Travel, Travel Tips, Adventure
THE STATS:
Location — If you look at a map of Italy, Cortona is pretty much smack-dab in the middle. It is located between Rome and Florence, in the province of Arezzo, set on the side of one of the Tuscan hills covered in olive groves.
Population —The city is surrounded by high, stone walls and so its expansion is limited. There are currently around 23,000 people.
Cortona's Claim To Fame — American author Frances Mayes moved to Cortona, found love, and wrote a book called Under The Tuscan Sun. This book was turned into a movie of the same name which was filmed in the town. Cortona’s opera house made an appearance in the movie Life Is Beautiful and, on a more historical note, it is one of the few cities bypassed by Alexander The Great who apparently marched right by on his journey to conquer the known world.
Orientation — Because the city is built into a hill, it has only one level street, Via Nazionale or Main Street, located near Piazzale Garibaldi — the main gate. As I mentioned before, an ancient stone wall (going back to the time of the Etruscans) encircles the entire city and there are only a few exits or entrances. Most of the hotels, restaurants and cafes are located near, or just off, the Main Street. At the top of the hill is a huge cathedral and the old historical fort. You can walk around the entire city in about an hour.
Getting Around — There is no need to do anything but walk within the city walls. Most of the roads are very steep and made of uneven cobblestones, so make sure you are wearing comfortable footwear (leave the heels at home ladies).
Getting There And Away — The Florence-Rome train line does not stop in Cortona, but in Camucia located at the bottom of the hill; the stop is called Camucia-Cortona. It is close enough to both of the big cities that you can easily visit Cortona as a day trip (but I recommend staying at least one night). Buses, running every half hour, will take you up to Cortona’s main gate, BUT if you are up for it, a 20-30 minute walk through olive groves and past stone farmhouses is also an option.
Where To Stay — Ostello San Marco is the main hostel is the city and is located in an old monastery which means that it has huge, clean rooms. Their website is pretty rough, but it's where I stayed and is a fantastic hostel. There are a few small hotels and B&Bs as well.
What To Do — Though Cortona is small and not full of the usual attractions, what makes this place so special is the atmosphere. It has the feel, smells, and look of another time — everything that you imagine the idealized ‘Tuscany’ to be can be found within the city walls.
There are incredible views of the valley from multiple locations, bakeries full of treats, wine bars bursting with local flavours, and family-run restaurants full of melt-in-your-mouth dishes. There are also stunning examples of Renaissance architecture, churches with beautiful sculpture, and the Museo Diocesano has some incredible pieces (notable is a masterpiece by Fra Angelico).
A hike up to the 16th century Fortezza, originally built for the Medici family, is definitely worth the sweat, as it offers stunning views and a unique look at the interior of the fortified walls of the city.
How I Found It — My University had a campus located in Cortona, so in 2004, I was lucky to spend almost 4 months living in the city. While there, I studied art history, history, and classics from people who lived or worked in the area.
I went for morning jogs past Frances Mayes’ home, drank Tuscan wine daily, and became a regular at Bar Sport, my favourite cappuccino spot, where I learned the art of drinking coffee in Italy.
It is — without a doubt — one of the most magical places that I have ever been, and well worth the hike up the hill to visit it!
